Visiting Auckland Castle today
provided a rich and concentrated set of contrasting experiences: the twelfth
century St Peter’s Chapel in the home of the Prince Bishops of Durham has a
medieval feel with pillars and arches, stained glass windows and wood panelled
ceiling, and walls studded with the coats of arms of bishops going back to and
beyond Thomas Wolsey; currently installed above the altar however is a bang up
to date four panel video installation by Bill Viola that over seven minutes depicts
four people (martyrs) subjected to visually stunning ordeals by earth, wind,
fire and water, from which they emerge with human spirit intact; upstairs in
the Long Dining Room are the awe-inspiring collection of paintings by Francisco
de Zurbaran of Joseph and his twelve sons, as remarkable for their Judean
presence in this centre of Christianity as for their art; while in an adjacent
room the contrasting culture of football is celebrated with the Two Blues
exhibition celebrating the history of Bishop Auckland FC with old programmes and
artefacts, newsreel footage of some of their unequalled ten FA Amateur Cup wins,
and the trophy itself on loan from the FA; the icing on the cake was a tea room
to do it all justice.
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